Tuesday, May 24, 2011

Parting is such sweet sorrow. And other platitudes.

I am going to work harder to keep the blog current than to backfill.  But keep your eyes peeled for backposts between current ones.  This one covers the past two days here in İstanbul.

Yesterday was full of departures and goodbyes--or perhaps farewells, depending on who's in mind.  While I sure I won't be seeing everyone from my group again, even in Louisville, I will certainly be seeing others.  Such is life.  

The day started early for the group heading home--the bus was scheduled to leave the hotel at 4:00 AM.  In reality, everyone was extremely prompt and the bus arrived at the airport before 4:00.  Being less bright than I sometimes imagine, I decided that accompanying the group would be a fantastic idea.  Despite my misgivings as the alarm buzzed less than 2 hours after laying down, in the end it was definitely worth the trip to say farewell and have a few last minute conversations.  

This also gave me an opportunity to explore the Istanbul metro system, which consists of only about 10 stops between the airport and its terminus near Aksaray.  The ride was about 30 minutes (I think), and felt a lot like a strange dream in my sleep deprived and thoughtful state. Naturally I passed right back out once in the hotel.  

I spent most of the day wandering with Ben, Mackenzi, her friend Lauren, and one of our police guides-turned-friend Rauf.  Our most notable destinations were a barber shop (Ben and I got great Turkish shaves for only 3 Lira--I am now sporting a stylish circle beard and a sideburn tan line courtesy of two weeks of Turkish sun.  We also spent a couple of hours at a café on the Galata bridge overlooking the Golden Horn-- the bottom level of the bridge is devoted to expensive restaurants overlooking the water.  

Today I spent about 7 hours in the Istanbul Archaeological Museum-- another really impressive collection of sculpture and ancient art, rivaled in my experience only by the Athens Archaeological Museum.  The Istanbul collection is much, much larger and more varied, while the Athens collection may have more spectacular individual pieces.  Neither should be missed, of course.  Most of my photos will be from that museum.

Also, I promise I have done more this trip than look at nude statues.  Not that you could tell from the photos I post. 


View of the Market District and Golden Horn from the Galata Bridge café

Bes, "god of irresistible power' greeting me at the museum entrance
Funeral relief depicting a farewell.  One of the more emotionally touching sculptures I have seen.

Ah, Nike.  My favorite of the Greek goddesses.  Perhaps she should have been the goddess of the wind, considering so many of her depictions seem to be standing in a hurricane.

Poor Marysas, forever remembered for being skinned alive..
These photos are obviously out of order.  These are fishermen on the top deck of the Galata bridge.  The Galata tower is in the background.
Another of the Market District from Galata Bridge.
Saint Anthony of Padua Cathedral in Galata
Sumerian, Hittite, or Assyrian --not really sure.  This exceeds my historical knowledge and I failed to photograph his tag.
In the spirit of Turkish Justice, here is a very, very old murder Sumerian conviction.  Both the tag and plate photographed.

This is mostly impressive due to age--20 centuries BC
Entrance to a Babylonian street

Babylonian/Sumerian.  Again my European history is failing me.  Probably because this isn't European.
More of the Babylonian gate.
Appears to be a Medusa, but I didn't find the tag.  Even Medusa cries.
Peacock decoration inside the Tiled Portico
Iznik tiles and gold leaf decorations inside the Tiled Portico.
Beautiful stained glass (also in the Tiled Portico)
A view of the entrance to the museum.  It stretches in a "C" shape
More decorations in the Tiled Portico.  I can't think of the name for this.  Grotto?
Athena adjusting her sandal (maybe Aphrodite?)
What appears to be a child fighting a wolf.  Nothing amiss here..
Intricate relief carvings on a sarcophagus
Sarcophagus of Alexander (unfortunately a misnomer)
Sarcophagus of Alexander--battle scene
Sarcophagus of Alexander--battle scene
Proof that ancient people had the same LSD trip nightmares I have.  They just carved them into stone instead of trying to forget them.
More from Alexander's Sarcophagus.
More from Alexander.
A really fun bi color marble statue.  The stone is one solid piece.  This is a great example of what a sculptor on Paros (Aristides Varrias, if you are curious) about uncovering what the stone holds rather than imposing your vision upon the material.  This philosophy apparently goes back quite a long way. 
Zeus
Hand of Aphrodite.  Incredible. 
Tyche
Marcus Aurelius or Hadrian
Hall of the Byzantine Emperors' Palaces
Playing a harplike instrument.  Again the preservation is amazing.
My muse!
Oceanus reclining.  Not sure I'd be comfortable with finding him in my living room.
Definitely Marcus Aurelius.  You can tell he's thinking Stoic thoughts.
A beautiful Aphrodite.  This is one of my favorite statues thus far.

2 comments:

  1. did you notice the weird eye shapes in the clouds of the first photo on this blog? or is that just me! the hand of aphrodite is a magnificent photo of a phenomenal sculpture! love you blog and love you! mom

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  2. Wow! The details you're capturing with your camera are stunning - it's as close as we'll ever come to seeing it from your perspective, and you're doing a marvelous job at capturing it. It's amazing that little things like Aphrodite's hand or the figures carved into the sarcophagi have been preserved so well for so long. I hope to see many more photos when you get back. :)

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